The Treasury (el-Khazneh) at Petra (Photo by E. Jones)
By Emily Jones
Another week in desert paradise complete! While it’s still extremely hot and the work is heavy, I feel as though I’m becoming more accustomed to the weather and the work load. I have never been a morning person but watching the sunrise over the Wadi makes getting up at 4am almost worth it. At the beginning of this week my square moved to a new field after completing our previous unit. While Field C was wonderful for learning the basics of field work, Field B has been far more exciting. Upon opening our square we came across a large wall almost immediately, followed by a number of complete cooking pots. This is very exhilarating as it feels as though I’m discovering complete puzzle pieces to the past as opposed to merely fragments. Naturally the view from site will never get old, as we overlook the mountainous landscape all the way over to the Dead Sea and beyond to the West Bank. Being in this part of the world always seemed like a far-fetched dream, and to me looking out at the view of the Jordan Valley is almost as refreshing as a cold glass of water in the desert heat.
Following our second week of field work we had one of the most memorable weekends I think any of us could ask for. We ventured south to the crusader castles Kerak and Shobak and then on to Petra, followed by a night in the Wadi Rum. The castles were so cool, especially their architecture which many of us have just recently learned so much about. Seeing what we’ve learned about in real life is such a fulfilling experience. Kerak was beautiful and had very well-preserved architecture, which made imagining it at its prime far easier. While at Shobak many of us took the escape route out of the castle which was an extremely steep and dark tunnel which wound its way all the way down the hill. Both had their highlights and I could have spent hours at each, exploring the many rooms and passage ways.
After a day of sprinting around these ruins (trying to squeeze in all we could) we were pampered by staying in a luxurious hotel in Wadi Musa, just outside the gates to Petra. We all indulged in a refreshing swim, nice hot showers, delicious food and amazing beds (with air conditioning).
Saturday was spent exploring the Nabatean capital, which I believe was a definite highlight for everyone. Seeing Petra up close and personal was nearly surreal. While the 850 stair climb up to the Monastery was slightly more than exhausting, seeing the rock-cut architecture which so many of us have not only studied but seen in movies was amazing, to say the least. The red sand and enormous cliff faces were breathtaking as we hiked up the mountain to the grandiose monuments which stood at the top. It’s amazing to think of the Nabateans using Petra for its intended purpose and living in that world, as though it weren’t a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity simply to see it. I rode a camel through the Roman street passing the Amphitheater, Great Temple and up to the Treasury, feeling on top of the world.
This already amazing weekend continued as we trekked on to the Wadi Rum for a night at a Bedouin-style camp. Side note: “The Martian” was filmed there using the deep red sand of the Wadi to recreate Mars. The experience is one I will never forget. They made us an absolutely delicious meal, cooked in the ground, and welcomed us with wonderful hospitality. With food, music and traditional dancing I had an absolute blast partying in the desert with them. They put on a traditional wedding ceremony, choosing Sarah and Lucas to be the bride and groom, and showed us how to celebrate a (fictional) marriage, Bedouin style. Specifically, this included lots of clapping and dancing and pure merriment all around. Ending the night’s festivities, we wandered into the Wadi to stargaze at the vast and very visible night sky. I don’t think I have ever seen a brighter moon. I was able to hike up the cliff to our prime stargazing spot, just by the light of the Gumar (Arabic for moon), and enjoy the glorious night sky uninterrupted by light pollution. A few hours of star gazing ended with a wonderful sleep in a surprisingly cool (both temperature and style) tent. In the morning we were treated to a 3 hour long ride through the Wadi Rum to see some of its breathtaking sights. From the backs of pick up trucks the views and experiences were exhilarating. We saw huge red sand dunes, insane natural sandstone formations and even Lawrence of Arabia’s purported cave. The weekend consisted of continuous excitement and awe inspiring sights, making for one of the best weekends of my 22 years. While being the most exhausted I think I have been, I don’t think I can quite express just how amazing the third week here has been.